A Return Forward on the PNT

In 2017 I did a section hike of the PNT from Hannegan Pass to Ross Lake with my friend Pounce. We cut our hike short when I became severely dehydrated and ill. At Big Beaver at Ross Lake two kind young men gave us a boat ride to the trail up to Highway 20 where our car was parked so we skipped the last 7 miles of the Ross Lake section. When Pounce came back for a visit in 2021 we decided to make up those missed miles.

On Sunday, October 3rd, we drive up to the parking lot off Highway 20 at Ross Lake after a stop in Concrete at 5Bs for some amazing gluten free baked goods. We strap our packs on and descend the trail down to Ross Lake.

Pounce and I at the trailhead

Looking down at Ross Lake Dam 

Heading left on the PNT

The random things you see while hiking

It is a beautiful sunny October day and the trail down to the dam is in good shape. We pass a boat that looks like it has fallen off a trailer along the way and hike through a narrow rock wall entrance to the Ross Lake Dam. 

I love hiking across dams

Looking over the edge of Ross Lake Dam is kinda scary

Once we cross the dam we hike up the leaf covered trail towards Ross Lake Resort. I have always wanted to visit the resort and when we reach the spot where we can take the turn down to the resort we decide to visit. Ross Lake Resort is a unique spot on the Pacific Northwest Trail. The cabins float on rafts on the lake and they have a small store where they rent out boats to people. Many PNT through hikers mail themselves a resupply package here after the long stretch through the Pasaytan Wilderness before continuing on through the next stretch to Mt. Baker. 

Wall of remembrance

Pounce looks up information on her phone as we eat lunch at the picnic tables

Rental boats at Ross Lake Resort

Ross Lake Resort

Floating buildings at Ross Lake Resort

Covid has complicated things for the resort and we slip our masks on before entering the small store where Pounce finds a perfect little cozy for her boyfriend. We eat lunch at the picnic tables outside, enjoying the sun before throwing away our trash, shouldering our packs and heading up the trail again.

Pounce and I talk about life as we meander up trail and I remark on how beautiful the hike is and how nice it is to be able to see the mountains. When we were at this section in 2017 a fire had just started and smoke obscured the Ross Lake views. It is also nice to hike in crisp October weather instead of the smoggy heat of July. It feels like a return forward.

A return forward is when you find yourself back at a place again, but instead of being in the exact same place, like a circle, it is more like an upward spiral. You may be back where you started but you are not stuck in the same place. You've gained wisdom and maturity and are at a better spot. Instead of frustration that you are back where you started you greet that place like an old friend that you are happy to see again.

We press onward toward Big Beaver Campground, passing gigantic trees and several rushing streams.

Mossy green trails

Ross Lake 

Looking north at Desolation Peak and Hozemeen Mountain

A stream rushes down to the lake

The trail seems magical with fallen leaves, jade green moss, sparkling streams and eerie fungi.

We arrive at Big Beaver Campground around 5:00pm and wander the campground looking for the perfect place to set up our tents. We have the entire campground to ourselves. 

After we set up our tents we heat up our dinners. Days are short in October and we quickly gather some firewood before it is completely dark to try to make a campfire. Everything is damp from the torrential rain earlier in the week but Pounce has mad fire making skills and eventually we are enjoying a popping fire. 

The fire dies and we walk down to the dock and gaze at the glittering constellations over the lake. I use my Sky app to identify Jupiter and Saturn. After marveling at the starry sky we return to camp and snuggle into our comfy sleeping bags to enjoy a good night's rest.

The next morning I am surprised that we do not have much condensation on our tents, despite camping beside a lake. Pounce tells me that when you camp beneath trees that they absorb a lot of the moisture. The worst place to camp for condensation is in an open area. I always learn something new when I camp with Pounce. 

Pounce is a triple crowner, meaning she has hiked the Appalachian, Pacific Crest and Continental Divide trails. Those thousands of miles have given her extensive experience in outdoor life. Her trail name when she was on the Appalachian Trail was Pounce: Master of Time and Space. Now that is an awesome trail name! She got that title because of her uncanny ability to look at a map and know exactly how far it is to the next check point and how long it will take to get there. It is a skill set that I aspire to have someday.

It is chilly when we get up and I can not get my lighter going to start my hot water. I eventually borrow Pounce's, who has kept her lighter in her pocket to keep it warm. Lighters do not work when they are cold, she explains to me. Yet another thing I have learned from Pounce!

I wander down to the lake to enjoy my cup of coffee and the morning views. Everything is quiet and a sense of wonder and peace sweeps over me.

Our camp site with table and bear box

View of the lake from the table

Early morning Ross Lake

Brand new outhouses. Clean and well stocked.

After filtering some water from the lake and eating breakfast, we pack up our tents and head back down the trail towards the dam. I packed some cards with questions on them as conversation starters and I pull them out one by one. We discuss our memories of favorite childhood books and snacks, and best and worse advice we've been given.

Bridge at Big Beaver Creek

I wish I knew what these mushrooms are called

So many pretty streams

We hear horse hooves behind us on the trail and we pull off to the side to let the horses pass us. They are hauling out supplies for trail maintenance crews and are ridden by two women with the National Park Service. I am sad that I don't think to pull out my camera for a picture before they are quickly around the corner.

Hozemeen and Desolation are clouded over today

Oh these fall colors!

Before we know it we are passing the turn off for Ross Lake Resort. In the distance we can see Jack Mountain and I have been playing with my Peak app on my phone and have finally figured out how to use it to identify the peaks around us. 

Ross Lake Resort and Dam before us

Jack Mountain from the dam

We make it to the dam and pull out a snack. The concrete is warm as we sit on the dam and gaze at Jack Mountain in the distance. Eventually we begin the steep ascent to Highway 20 and our car. It has been an amazing trip and an amazing return forward.