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Saturday, June 21, 2014

Ebey's Landing

Normally I try to avoid a popular hiking place like Ebey's Landing on a Saturday. But today I'm thirsty, frantic, for ocean views and there is no other place like the views you can get from the top of Ebey's Landing.

Snow capped Olympics across the Strait of Juan de Fuca
The parking lot is full and I snag a place along the road, trying hard to keep my wheels off the white line. A park ranger is down in the parking lot checking for Discovery Passes in vehicles and although I don't need one parked on the road, I hang mine from the rear view mirror anyways. I'm a little worried my left rear tire is straddling the white line. Maybe seeing that I'm a good Discovery Pass payer will get me a little grace.

I see several men with huge backpacks sitting and eating lunch at one of the picnic tables and I stop to ask them how far they're hiking. They're training for upcoming hikes and are going from Fort Ebey to Fort Casey to camp. I wish them good hiking and continue up the stairs and up the hill.


Wildflowers bloom on the edge of an Ebey barley field with Mt. Baker in the distance

Heading up. Go high for the views.
I continue up to the top of the bluff, pausing a couple times to catch my breath and drink in the views. The hillsides are a riotous blend of purple and yellow wildflowers and the blue water far below glistens in the sun. Across the sound I can see the snow capped Olympic Mountains.

Purple covered hills
Before I know it I'm at the end of the trail and heading down the switchbacks. I take the longer gentler switchbacks to save my knees and pause at the bottom to give Sadie a drink. She is panting, tongue lolling out, and drains the bowl of water quickly, lapping it up in great gulps. Normally I skip as much of the beach walk as I can by taking the trail along Perego Lake, but today I'm Sadie-thirsty for the ocean and I don't care if I have to hike in the soft sand. I need the blue ocean and I drink in the views greedily as I continue down the beach, gulping in the sand and the waves and the kelp and the soothing lap of the waves on the shore.

Heading down the switchbacks. Perego Lake in front.

The Earth laughs in flowers - Ralph Waldo Emerson "Hamatreya"
I pass a few other hikers and watch as some boys try to skip rocks in the water. Sadie acts like she's going to drink the ocean water and I stop and give her another drink. Thirsty, we are both so thirsty.
Kelp decorates the beach


In the distance a black sailed sailboat cruises across the sea

My thirst slacks a bit as I continue on the beach. By the time I return to my car my thirst has been satisfied. For today.

Friday, June 20, 2014

The Beach Walk

School ended two days ago and this was the first chance I had to get out and do some hiking. My two week Pacific Crest Trail backpacking trip is less than a month away and I definitely will be trying to get as much hiking in as possible to build up my leg strength and stamina. With that in mind, I fill up my 3 liter water bladder to add 6.6 pounds of weight, and stick a small folding chair in my backpack as well. Last year I just added a 10 pound bag of flour, but my savvy husband said, "Why not take stuff you can actually use, like a chair?" Duh, why didn't I think of that?

I drive down the road to the beach after checking the tide table. The tide is coming in, but will only be a high tide of 5.2. That is a pretty low high tide. I generally wouldn't try to walk the beach along the Whidbey Island cliffs with an incoming tide of 6 or higher, simply because there are some places where you could be blocked by the sea.

I park at Ebey's Landing and start walking the beach to the south. A friend had taken my dog for a walk a few weeks earlier on the beach, had let her off the leash, and she had run up a hill and gotten stuck on the top of the cliff. He found a path to the top of the cliff and went up to get her and I am curious to see where this path is.


Ebey's Landing

I fill my lungs with the briny salt air and as I hike along the beach listening to the waves pounding the shore, my soul fills up just a bit. Hiking fills up my soul. I've discovered as I've taught more and more years that summer break is no longer a luxury for me, but a necessity. It gives me time to fill up my soul again. I am a much better teacher when I'm a happy human being.

I love teaching when I can shut my door and talk with my kids and share the excitement of learning about other cultures. It is all the other stuff that sucks the joy out of me. Things like new teacher evaluation systems and new Smarter Balanced Tests and new administrators who are in our rooms every week observing us (instead of twice a year) and who don't understand the importance of recognizing all the great things we're doing with our kids and instead focus on the hoops we're expected to jump through, like making sure our Bloom's taxonomy poster is displayed on the wall somewhere in our room. Yes, Sir, my poster is actually up. It has been up for two weeks on the side of my cabinet facing my desk. Sorry you didn't see it from the back of the room as you typed madly on your ipad during your 5 minute observation.

A large tree stump juts out of the beach

I continue down the beach, Sadie firmly leashed, and after awhile I see the sign that says that I'm entering a private beach area at my own risk. I can see the saddle on the hill ahead and then the path up it. A yellow no trespassing sign warns against taking the path to the Sherwill Community above so I continue down the beach to a large green rock where I pause to give Sadie a drink on a flat log.

 
This green rock marks my turn around point
 
We turn around here and I pull out a small black bag and pick up the trash I find on the beach as we return to the car. A plastic bottle, an empty yogurt container. Shortly before we get back to the car it starts to rain. Its not much more than a light mist, really, and I don't bother to pull out my rain coat since we're almost back.


Once again I fill my lungs with that wonderful salty sea air. I'm grateful for that beautiful fragrance, for the sight of footprints in the sand and the sound of the waves beating against the rocky shore. Ah, thank God for summer.

Tuesday, April 8, 2014

The Elwha River Valley and Humes Ranch hike

A few months ago I found a site on Facebook called Exotic Hikes. They are an organization that writes about hikes on the Olympic Peninsula and in the Olympic National Park. They post pictures frequently and I've learned many interesting historical things from them as well. One of the hikes that they highlighted shortly before spring break is a loop trail that goes to Humes Ranch, Michael's Cabin and also by a beautiful river feature called Goblin's Gate. I decided that I had to do this hike and so I drove up the Elwha River Valley, past where they've taken down the Elwha Dam, and then up Whiskey Bend Road, a narrow, one car dirt road in surprisingly good shape and with only a few pot holes. I had stopped by the Olympic National Park Visitor's Center in Port Angles and had picked up a map.

The day was sunny and warm with clear blue skies and I followed the trail up until I took the side trail down for Goblin's Gate.
It was a steep descent down to the river and I was glad I had my hiking poles to take some of the pressure off my knees. Goblin's Gate was beautiful, but actually a little scary. I stayed well back from the edge, since a slip into the river with my backpack on probably wouldn't have been a good thing. I didn't stay very long because another family came along and I wanted to move out of the way for them to take pictures as well.
Water rushes through Goblin's Gate

Goblin's Gate

Goblin's Gate


Goblin's Gate


I retraced my steps back to the trail and continued on the lower trail since it makes a more gradual descent back up. I enjoyed the sound of the water rushing past and it seemed to be singing with a deep solemn joy, Free at Last, Free at Last, Thank God, I'm Free at Last! The Elwha River as been loosed from the dam that chained it and slowed it down and although this area was above that, the sound of the river filled the whole valley.
selfie!


Trail that skirts the river
After following the river for a bit, the trail gradually climbed up to Humes Ranch, a cool little cabin that was restored a few years ago. You can't stay in the cabin, but there is a campground down in the meadow that has bear wires.
Several trees were tagged with these metal tabs. Maybe fruit trees?

Humes cabin to the left, the trail to the right goes to the campground

A plaque on the door tells some of the history of the Humes brothers and their cabin
After exploring the cabin and looking around, I continued down the trail to a lovely meadow and then on through the campground that had a youth group staying in it. The trail looped around and up and then I discovered Michael's Cabin set off the trail as well. It has also had some restoration done on it.
Michael's Cabin
I enjoyed the views across the valley to the steep mountains, the roar of the river, and my heart sang as I continued up the trail back to the trail head. Some places on the trail were a bit muddy, but I did okay in my tennis shoes instead of my hiking boots. I passed several other hikers and a volunteer Olympic Park Ranger who asked about trail conditions. Although there were a few blow downs and a little mud in spots, over all the trail was in good condition. This loop trail was six miles.
This Madrona tree has picked up the rock that originally impeded its growth
Once I was finished hiking I drove on up to Hurricane Ridge since it was a clear day. I didn't stay long since it was much colder up there, but the views were amazing.
Hurricane Ridge


Mt. Olympus
After lingering at the visitor's center for awhile, I headed back down the mountain and over to Port Townsend, where I enjoyed a vanilla malt at the malt shop before catching the ferry back to Coupeville. What an awesome way to spend a few days during spring break!

Tuesday, April 1, 2014

Spruce Rail Trail

About eight years ago my husband and I drove past Lake Crescent on our way to a family reunion. Something about it grabbed me and I promised myself that I'd come back some day. I honestly didn't think it would take so long but I finally made it back! With a forecast of two days of good weather, I packed up my backpack, made a ferry reservation, and headed west.
The ferry pulls in to Coupeville
 
Spruce Rail Trail Trailhead

Lake Crescent is a glacial lake ringed by steep mountains. Along one side runs a 4 mile rail trail. I expected the views to be mostly peek a boo views through the trees and although the first and fourth miles were like that, the water front views during miles two and three were stellar. The trail was in great shape after the first rather muddy mile, with only one blow down that was easily traversed. 
Lots of little water streams

Mount Storm King across the lake

A beautiful bridge

snow capped mountains ring the lake

I paused along the way to peek into a couple tunnels, but kept clear of entering, having been warned on various websites that they were unstable. Oddly, there were no warning signs of any kind on the actual trail. This trail could have used a few historical interpretive signs, too.

an old tunnel

tunnel shaft looks kinda sketchy

Lake Crescent is not a peaceful lake. The water surged restlessly whenever I stepped near it and it felt like it was hungrily hoping for a misstep so that it could grab me by the ankles and plunge me to a watery doom. An ancient Indian legend says that the lake was formed when a god got fed up with the warring by enemy tribes and threw down a mountain top,  killing all the warriors and damming up the lake.
the only piece of rail I encountered

taking a break and airing out the feet

log to the lake

the lake laps hungrily

It took me about four hours to do the round trip. Towards the end an additional 2.5 paved section connects to Hwy 101. I hiked along that for awhile before I finally pulled out my map and realized I wasn't interested in doing that part and turned around. Round trip mileage for me was probably about 9 miles.

Sunday, February 9, 2014

The Unknown Trail

As I was driving around Coupeville this morning I spotted a trail I've never seen before. It was off Engle Road near Fort Casey and when I stopped to explore it I discovered part of it, at least,  is owned by the Whidbey Camano Land Trust.  There is a nice grassy wide pathway that cuts through head high wild rosebushes. It goes above the beach bluff popping out for an occasional ocean view and I was surprised to see how many old World War II lookouts, most carefully fenced off, there were. They must have lined most of the west side of Whidbey at one time, although several have suffered erosion to the point that they've fallen off the cliffs and you can see the slabs of concrete and rebar laying on beach.

Athough it looks like someone recently built some wooden information kiosks along the trail no information is yet posted. I enjoyed the mystery of exploring the trail which eventually led me to Camp Casey and I discovered that Camp Casey has its own campground complete with tables, firepits, electric hookups and restrooms that were locked for the winter. I so often discover things I never knew when I go exploring by foot.

The Whidbey Camano Land Trust has worked to restore natural prairie vegetation and there are laminated cards for plant identification tied to the fences. I will definately have to come back in the summer to learn about this.

I wonder if some of this trail work is what John Knechtl told me about which will eventually be part of the PNT.

Saturday, February 1, 2014

And the numbers say...

Maybe I'm a little geeky but I sat down this morning to try to approximate how many miles I hiked during 2013. Most of the time I didn't record mileage, but minutes hiked, so I counted up the minutes and divided those by a 2.5 mile per hour pace. Grand total came out to approximately 443.5 miles for the year. Broken down by months, the totals were:

January     33 miles
February   25 miles
March       35 miles
April          47 miles
May          40 miles
June           25 miles (This seems oddly low. I suspect I neglected to record a few hikes.)
July            91 miles
August       46.5 miles
September 39 miles
October     20 miles
November 15 miles
December  27 miles

A few more random statistics:
Approximate Pacific Northwest Trail miles hiked:  67.5
Approximate Pacific Crest Trail miles hiked: 75.5
Amount my feet have grown since 2012:  1.5 sizes
Amount of weight I lost in 2013: 19.5 lbs.
Amount I've kept off: 15 lbs.
Goal for 2014:  500 miles in honor of my 50th birthday this year


More of the Cascade Rail Trail

January, 2014, was my month to do some miles on the Pacific Northwest Trail. I finished up hiking the Cascade Rail Trail, a popular alternate route of the PNT which may eventually become part of the official route someday. I had hiked most of the Cascade Trail during winter break, except a 3 mile section that I did around mid January. I really liked the trail, although the sections that go through Concrete or close to towns could use a little clean up/trash collection. The final 3 mile section I finally remembered to take a trash bag with me and did my part to beautify the trail, ending up with a full bag of trash. Here are some of the things I saw along the way.
A view of the Skagit River through the trees

The old concrete silos welcome visitors to Concrete

The post office in Concrete is right next to the trail, along with an old rail car

Challenger Ridge Winery
Birdsview Brewery

I stopped for a little lunch on a bench here. This is close to where the trail pops out to a road for a few hundred feet.

Near Hamilton someone has decorated the trail by nailing their beer tops to the railings
A natural tree tunnel near Lyman. It actually felt a little creepy.

Cool old truck

A herd of buffalo close to where the trail crosses Hwy 20

Frost made these bridges extremely slippery. Even the nonskid center was slick! I held the handrail all the way across.

Looking east at the snow covered Cascades