Glasgow, Scotland, June 22, 2022

June 22, 2022

We landed in Heathrow Airport in London at 6:30am. It was a bright morning but Pounce and I both felt pretty jet lagged. We had some coffee and then ate breakfast at a restaurant in the airport. I explored the Harry Potter store which was full of things that I thought about buying, but I did not want to have to haul them all around through Scotland for the next three weeks. I decided to stop back by the store on the flight out in July.

We catnapped on some uncomfortable chairs in the airport until 11:25am when we went to our gate for our flight to Glasgow. I had a feeling we'd be delayed and once we were on the plane, we were, due to unloading luggage of missing passengers. Unbeknownst to us, because of a combination of lack of workers and the highest volume of travelers since before Covid, Heathrow was to become a nightmare travel experience this summer.

As we flew to Glasgow I watched the countryside out the window. I could see the Atlantic Ocean to the west. The landscape seemed be fairly flat with lots of fields and some small towns. There were occasional stands of trees and a few rivers.

We arrived in Glasgow at 3:00pm and I put my pack together, stowing my Osprey pack bag inside my backpack. For some reason I could not get any cash out of the airport ATM although Cathe could. I was worried and frustrated by this but Cathe loaned me some pounds until I was able to find an ATM that worked a few days later. We caught a bus to downtown Glasgow and walked to our hostel. I gazed around me in wonder as we walked, absorbing the scenery and culture of Scotland. The cars driving on the other side of the street kept me on my toes but I was surprised that everything seemed, not familiar, but not usually foreign, either.

The Scottish accent, on the other hand, was difficult for me to understand. As we walked along and I overhead various conversations in the street I had a hard time recognizing that people were even speaking English. The Scottish brogue has a musical cadence to it that makes it seem like a completely different language. I enjoyed listening to it, but wished I could understand it better.

Eurohostel mural

We arrived at the Eurohostel. I had never stayed in a hostel before and was looking forward to the experience. It was very affordable at only 45 pounds a night and Pounce and I had our own private rooms. The halls were a confusing warren of  random swinging "fire" doors with strobing epileptic inducing hallway lights. The bathroom was across the hall and the shower was the kind that was warm for three minutes and then turned tepid. Downstairs was a large comfortable dining room and kitchen that we could use and hang out in. Since that was the only place I could get wifi I hung out there on multiple occasions.

After we settled in and rested for awhile, we ventured out to explore. I like Glasgow. It has a gritty, real feeling to it and the local street artists have decorated many of the walls with amazing murals. We found an outdoor store and Pounce bought an umbrella and a belt. We then had dinner at the Drum and Monkey Restaurant. Pounce and I shared a stovie (beef in root veggies) and a Corkie pie (shredded lamb with a haggis topping) Both were delicious. I also had a hard cider. 

It is odd to me that I have never seen a Scottish Restaurant in America. I've eaten in Irish restaurants and the food is actually quite similar. Scottish food is delicious! Pounce eats gluten free and the gluten free options in Scotland were astonishing. Way better than in the United States.

After dinner we wandered a bit more before heading back to the hostel to plan our food carries for the West Highland Way. We determined that only about a one day food supply would be needed at most.

The Horseshoe bar, famous for being the longest bar in the world

Buchanan Street, a pedestrian walk way

Princes Square

Clockwork Orange Subway Entrance

The Eurohostel is close to the River Clyde. Across the street was a statue of Spaniard Dolores Iburrurl memorializing Glasgow residents who joined the fight against fascism in Spain in the 1930s. It featured a quote by her, "Better to die on your feet than live forever on your knees."

The river Clyde across the street from our hostel

Better to die on your feet than live forever on your knees

Pounce quote of the day: "The benefit of traveling together is that only one of us has to think at a time."

Boston, June 19-21, 2022

When Pounce (Cathe) and I planned our trip to Scotland to hike the West Highland Way, I decided to take advantage of the trip to see the city of Boston. Boston has an urban trail called the Freedom Trail which passes by many historic sites. The trail is blazed with a line of bricks in the sidewalk which makes it easy to follow. I made arrangements to stay two nights and Pounce decided to join me to play tourist as well.

June 19, 2022

I got up at 3:30am to catch the 4:14am shuttle from Coupeville to SeaTac Airport. I arrived to a crazy check-in, eventually figuring out the kiosk and labeling my Osprey pack bag that I put my backpack in for safety on the flight. I joined the line to check the bag and once that was done, continued through TSA. After I made it through TSA I had about three hours to burn, so I ate a quinoa salad for breakfast with a "cold brewed" coffee that was tiny and iced. Then I walked the airport, exploring until I settled down and talked with Pounce on the phone who was still trying to figure out her clothing. 

The flight to Boston was uneventful on Alaska Air. I forgot how flat the USA is once you cross the Rockies. I called the hotel when I landed and they sent a shuttle to pick me up. The Holiday Inn Revere is really nice. I ate buffalo wings and had a cider at the bar and then came to my room. Their black out shades are impressive (double!) and I was ready for sleep after my day of travel.

June 20, 2022

I slept well and after the hotel breakfast walked up the street to the T, Boston's rapid transit train. I took the T to State Street and explored Faneuil Hall and Quincy Market and then took the one hour hop-on, hop-off trolly tour. It was a nice way to get an overview of Boston. 

Dinosaur at Quincy Market

Hop-on, hop-off trolley

We passed the famous golden teapot that has been at this location since 1873. It holds over 200 gallons of water and famously steams in cold weather. Now it is a Starbucks.

After that I went back to the hotel and met Pounce about 11:30am. Pounce's bus from Vermont had been delayed so she was late joining me in Boston. She got situated in the room and we took the T back to the aquarium to eat lunch at Quincy Market. We had clam chowder soup and shared a salad and then walked part of the Freedom Trail. 

Bricks mark the Freedom trail

Site of the Boston Massacre

Lots of political history in Boston

Democratic donkey

As we walked the Freedom Trail we listened to a podcast that described the different sites we passed and some of the history. 

This marks the site of the first public school in America

Five cents savings! Ha!

In the afternoon we took a harbor tour on a boat. It was fun to see the city from the water and we passed Old Ironsides, the USS Constitution. The captain pointed out that the Bunker Hill Memorial Bridge was designed to look like the USS Constitution with the sail lines.

Pounce and I

Old Ironsides

Bunker Hill Memorial Bridge was designed to mimic the sails of the USS Constitution

We ended the day at the Boston Commons and Public Gardens where the Make Way for Ducklings bronzes are.

Me and Mama Duck

Yep, this is the REAL Cheers!

We were tired and our feet hurt (27,000 steps!) so we crossed the street and ate at Cheers. I had fish and chips and Pounce had a burger. Then we had to walk all the way back to the blue line to take the T back to our hotel. We crashed into our beds and slept, especially since Cathe had only had a few hours of sleep the night before.

June 21, 2022

We got up and had breakfast at the hotel and then went to Bunker Hill to finish the Freedom Trail Tour. The USS Constitution was so cool! We got to climb down into the holds and they had interpretive tour guides in period dress that explained things about the ship and answered questions.

Bunker Hill

The USS Constitution

Nicknamed "Old Ironsides" because cannon balls bounced off her

We left that site and continued the Freedom Trail, walking over the bridge. We explored Copp's Hill Burying Ground, one of the oldest cemeteries in Boston and saw the Spite House, so named because it is the narrowest home in Boston and is believed to have been built to cut off the neighbor's light and air.

Spite House

We passed the Old North Church where Paul Revere hung the lanterns to warn of the British invasion and also passed his home.

Old North Church Tower

A period actor demonstrates old printing techniques

Outside of the print shop

Love the old brick streets

We ate Italian food for lunch and then went back to the hotel to get our luggage and take the shuttle to the airport for our 7pm flight.

Logan International Airport

We flew overnight to London, sitting on the upper deck of a huge British Airlines plane in a twin seat. Cathe had the window and I had the aisle. I watched Belfast and In the Heights on the flight and tried to get a little sleep.

Gear for the West Highland Way

I am on my way to hike the West Highland Way in Scotland! I will be living out of my backpack for the next month which should be interesting. Here are a few pictures of my gear.

Gregory Deva 60L backpack with detachable lid that turns into a fanny pack, Gregory rain cover

Big Agnes UL2 tent

Sea to Summit air mattress and pillow

REI sleeping bag, 15 degree

homemade rain skirt

Columbia Titanium rain coat

Patagonia fleece

long and short sleeved wool shirts

REI pants that zip off to shorts

Duluth pants

waterproof socks

2 other pairs of sock

2 wool icebreaker underwear

sleeping shorts

sports bra

Sea to Summit pot and bowl with spork

Snow Peak stove

sawyer squeeze water filtration

kula cloth

gloves, hat, hair ties

money belt

Rick Steve's guide

head net

incidentals like soap, deodorant, lotion, first aid stuff and medications

passport

hiking poles

glasses and sunglasses

water bottle

cell phone

Garmin

charging cords

Scottish electrical plug

small journal with pen

Rain Gear Check at Rhododendron Park

The rhododendrons are in full bloom and so I set up this week's Hike Together at Rhododendron Park in Coupeville. A couple people responded with a tentative yes, dependent on the weather. I left for the park at 1:15pm just as the skies opened and a deluge of rain began. It was the kind of downpour that I would normally have turned around and gone home in rather than hike. 

But for me, it was perfect. I wanted to test out some rain gear that I will be taking to Scotland in two weeks when I hike the West Highland Way. The West Highland Way is a 96 mile hike from Milngavie (north of Glasgow) to Fort Williams. It winds past beautiful lochs, heather and moors in the Scottish Highlands. The weather can be quite wet. It is approximately the same latitude as Juneau, Alaska, and Moscow, Russia. I plan to wild camp while in Scotland so good rain gear is a must.

It was raining so hard I had to turn my windshield wipers on high and I almost missed the turn off to the trailhead. I parked and waited five minutes, pretty sure that no one would show up. No one did. I was eager to see how my new pair of waterproof socks would do, along with my new Altra shoes. After trying out my waterproof socks and shoes two weeks ago, I determined that I needed an extra small pair of socks instead of small, and that I needed to upsize my hiking shoes a half size. My new socks and shoes arrived two days ago.

I was wearing my Columbia titanium raincoat with my homemade rain skirt. I secured my Gregory Pack cover to my Deva 60 pack, picked up my hiking poles and away I went.

I followed the road through the campground and past the locked gate. Rain splatted on my hood with large plops as I click clacked down the road with my hiking poles, enjoying the sight of splashes of pink rhododendrons against the gray green of the forest. 

After I came to the gate at the end of the road I turned around, taking the Grandpa's Legacy trail back until it rejoined the Rhodie Trail. The rain continued unabated and I deliberately splashed through some puddles as I traveled back. Despite the beautiful rhododendrons, this park is not one of my favorite places to hike. The forest seems oppressive and the whole park has kind of a creepy feel to it. Oddly, the Rhodie Trail seems to go downhill both ways. 

After 2.4 miles in 50 minutes, I returned to my car, where I took off my rain skirt and stuck my pack in the back. The rain skirt had done a great job of keeping my legs dry, except for the calves and ankle where the skirt didn't cover. But I made a rookie mistake with my coat. I forgot to zip up the pits and I didn't realize it until I felt my sides getting wet. 

I drove home and hauled my pack into the house, toeing off my soaked shoes. I was very curious about my socks. I took them off and they were soaked on the outside. The right one felt a tiny bit damp inside but the left was dry.

jury is still out

I set my pack on the bench as I took off and examined my socks. Later I went back to my pack and realized when I took the pack cover off that the bottom of the pack was wet. I pulled out everything to see if anything inside was wet but everything inside had stayed dry. I don't know if the bottom of the pack got wet while I walked or if it got wet when I set it down with the wet rain cover still on it. It will be a good thing to check on another rainy day.

wet bottom of pack

All in all, my rain gear performed well, although that damp right sock has me concerned. I may return them and get a different pair.

coat and rain skirt performed well

Ten days left of school and then I'm off to Scotland!! Stay tuned for more updates.

Bus and Brew Tour

A few months ago I started a hiking group with people that I work with, reasoning that although I might not get outside just for myself, if I knew people were meeting and expecting me to be there that I would go. I started this last summer with co-workers, but once school started it seemed overwhelming to try to plan weekly hikes. Then I discovered Maribeth Crandell's weekly blog, Hiking Close to Home.

Each week Maribeth blogs about a hike on Whidby, Fidalgo and Guemes Islands. Now I don't have to try to figure it out myself! I just take her hike and announce it to my Hike Together group and include a link to her blog if they want more information. Usually my group hikes on Sunday afternoons. This week we did a Saturday hike because I reached out to Maribeth with a question about a hike and she volunteered to organize a bus tour for us. She works for Island Transit and part of her job is to educate the community about how to ride the local bus system. She planned out a trip and I put the word out. 

Saturday we met at Walmart in Oak Harbor at 9:00am and took the bus down to Greenbank Farms. Maribeth showed us how to read the bus schedule and we won prizes as she quizzed us. I have used Island Transit before, although this was the first time since Covid began. One of our group had never ridden Island Transit before and we enjoyed teaching her how to pull the cord to signal a stop. We arrived at Greenbank Farms about 45 minutes later and began our hike.

Greenbank Farm has 4 miles of trails through the forest and on a grassy hillside with stellar views of the water on both sides of the island. It is an off-leash dog park. The 1904 barns house a wine shop, cheese shop, art gallery, restrooms and Old Spot Bistro with espresso where Whidbey Pies are sold by the slice or whole pie. Outside there is a section maintained as a Master Gardener demonstration garden.

Braving the wind and wet at Greenbank Farms

Ms. Chelly 

We wandered the trails discovering wild camas blossoming and then took a trail into the forest. We discovered some new signs, old tractor pieces, a peace sign out of rocks and we hopped logs through boggy areas. I saw my first wild rhododendron of the spring in full pink bloom.

Wild camas. The bulb was a staple food for indigenous people.

New signage provides clarification

Peace!

Alin navigates the strategically placed logs

After hiking for about an hour we meandered over to the barns to peek in the shops and get some pie at the Bistro. Delicious! Afterward we strolled through the gardens looking at the plants and I even tried a leaf of a plant called Ox Alice (not sure of spelling) that had a delightful sour taste to it. I liked it but others in the group did not.

Fun hippo in the garden

Garden gnome

The bees loved this plant

The Bistro and gardens

After we explored the gardens we headed back to the bus stop and caught the bus into Coupeville, where we said goodbye to Maribeth and went to the Penn Cove Taproom for some food and drink. The Shifty Sailors serenaded us while we ate and afterwards some of us caught a bus back to Oak Harbor and some of us walked down the street to the Coupeville Water Festival. 

The combination of hiking, riding the bus and having a pint at the local tap room was a lot of fun. Thanks to everyone who came on this adventure with me and especially Maribeth for doing the planning. I think a bus and brew trip might just need to become a monthly event!