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Tuesday, April 8, 2014

The Elwha River Valley and Humes Ranch hike

A few months ago I found a site on Facebook called Exotic Hikes. They are an organization that writes about hikes on the Olympic Peninsula and in the Olympic National Park. They post pictures frequently and I've learned many interesting historical things from them as well. One of the hikes that they highlighted shortly before spring break is a loop trail that goes to Humes Ranch, Michael's Cabin and also by a beautiful river feature called Goblin's Gate. I decided that I had to do this hike and so I drove up the Elwha River Valley, past where they've taken down the Elwha Dam, and then up Whiskey Bend Road, a narrow, one car dirt road in surprisingly good shape and with only a few pot holes. I had stopped by the Olympic National Park Visitor's Center in Port Angles and had picked up a map.

The day was sunny and warm with clear blue skies and I followed the trail up until I took the side trail down for Goblin's Gate.
It was a steep descent down to the river and I was glad I had my hiking poles to take some of the pressure off my knees. Goblin's Gate was beautiful, but actually a little scary. I stayed well back from the edge, since a slip into the river with my backpack on probably wouldn't have been a good thing. I didn't stay very long because another family came along and I wanted to move out of the way for them to take pictures as well.
Water rushes through Goblin's Gate

Goblin's Gate

Goblin's Gate


Goblin's Gate


I retraced my steps back to the trail and continued on the lower trail since it makes a more gradual descent back up. I enjoyed the sound of the water rushing past and it seemed to be singing with a deep solemn joy, Free at Last, Free at Last, Thank God, I'm Free at Last! The Elwha River as been loosed from the dam that chained it and slowed it down and although this area was above that, the sound of the river filled the whole valley.
selfie!


Trail that skirts the river
After following the river for a bit, the trail gradually climbed up to Humes Ranch, a cool little cabin that was restored a few years ago. You can't stay in the cabin, but there is a campground down in the meadow that has bear wires.
Several trees were tagged with these metal tabs. Maybe fruit trees?

Humes cabin to the left, the trail to the right goes to the campground

A plaque on the door tells some of the history of the Humes brothers and their cabin
After exploring the cabin and looking around, I continued down the trail to a lovely meadow and then on through the campground that had a youth group staying in it. The trail looped around and up and then I discovered Michael's Cabin set off the trail as well. It has also had some restoration done on it.
Michael's Cabin
I enjoyed the views across the valley to the steep mountains, the roar of the river, and my heart sang as I continued up the trail back to the trail head. Some places on the trail were a bit muddy, but I did okay in my tennis shoes instead of my hiking boots. I passed several other hikers and a volunteer Olympic Park Ranger who asked about trail conditions. Although there were a few blow downs and a little mud in spots, over all the trail was in good condition. This loop trail was six miles.
This Madrona tree has picked up the rock that originally impeded its growth
Once I was finished hiking I drove on up to Hurricane Ridge since it was a clear day. I didn't stay long since it was much colder up there, but the views were amazing.
Hurricane Ridge


Mt. Olympus
After lingering at the visitor's center for awhile, I headed back down the mountain and over to Port Townsend, where I enjoyed a vanilla malt at the malt shop before catching the ferry back to Coupeville. What an awesome way to spend a few days during spring break!

Tuesday, April 1, 2014

Spruce Rail Trail

About eight years ago my husband and I drove past Lake Crescent on our way to a family reunion. Something about it grabbed me and I promised myself that I'd come back some day. I honestly didn't think it would take so long but I finally made it back! With a forecast of two days of good weather, I packed up my backpack, made a ferry reservation, and headed west.
The ferry pulls in to Coupeville
 
Spruce Rail Trail Trailhead

Lake Crescent is a glacial lake ringed by steep mountains. Along one side runs a 4 mile rail trail. I expected the views to be mostly peek a boo views through the trees and although the first and fourth miles were like that, the water front views during miles two and three were stellar. The trail was in great shape after the first rather muddy mile, with only one blow down that was easily traversed. 
Lots of little water streams

Mount Storm King across the lake

A beautiful bridge

snow capped mountains ring the lake

I paused along the way to peek into a couple tunnels, but kept clear of entering, having been warned on various websites that they were unstable. Oddly, there were no warning signs of any kind on the actual trail. This trail could have used a few historical interpretive signs, too.

an old tunnel

tunnel shaft looks kinda sketchy

Lake Crescent is not a peaceful lake. The water surged restlessly whenever I stepped near it and it felt like it was hungrily hoping for a misstep so that it could grab me by the ankles and plunge me to a watery doom. An ancient Indian legend says that the lake was formed when a god got fed up with the warring by enemy tribes and threw down a mountain top,  killing all the warriors and damming up the lake.
the only piece of rail I encountered

taking a break and airing out the feet

log to the lake

the lake laps hungrily

It took me about four hours to do the round trip. Towards the end an additional 2.5 paved section connects to Hwy 101. I hiked along that for awhile before I finally pulled out my map and realized I wasn't interested in doing that part and turned around. Round trip mileage for me was probably about 9 miles.